Kelly Kettle, a Touch o' the Irish

Submitted by Gus

"..First used over a century ago by Irish gypsies and Irish fishermen, a Kelly Kettle will boil water in just a few minutes, depending on the fuel.

Made from aluminum, it is essentially a double-walled chimney with the water contained in the chimney's double wall.

ED – This stove is a somewhat different take on the others featured here in that it is strictly a solid fuel burner (even to the point of using camel dung) though I suppose you could use fuel tabs such as hexamine or trioxane, or sterno cans in the burn pan.  In addition, for the most part, this stove is strictly for boiling water.  While there is an attachment for the 2.5-pint model which allows you to “stack” a pot on the kettle’s chimney for additional cooking space, boiling water is what it does best.

This having been said though, if solid fuel availability is not an issue the 1-pint version might be a viable option for personal use in the field, where packing liquid fuel is impractical and or dangerous, where re-supply might be spotty, or if you’re traveling by air, where the transportation of liquid fuel is prohibited.

Check out the Kelly Kettle here.

K-light Solar-Powered Lantern

Submitted by Carrie Lee

I'm not sure who this needs to go to, but I found a really neat camp light.  It’s a solar powered LED light the size of a soda can - small enough for military to pack.

ED – The PiSat K-light is a battery-powered multi LED light that can be recharged using a supplied solar panel.  The light is equipped with a pair of brackets for positioning and stability.  The K-light has two power settings, low and high power.  The low power setting uses half the light’s sixteen LEDs to provide 180 degrees of illumination, while the high power setting uses all sixteen lights to provide 360 degrees of light.  At low power, the battery will last 20 hours.  Battery life at high power is 10 hours.  The recharge rate for the K-light is 1:1 at low power (you get one hour of light for every hour spent charging.

The unit weighs 22oz. (1 lb. 6 oz. or .6 kg.) and the nickel metal hydride battery has a lifespan of 3,000 cycles, which equates to 10 years of daily use.  Once charged, the light will hold its charge without decay for 8 months.  The light and solar panel are both water resistant and the light itself floats which makes recovery easier if it should go overboard.

On the downside, the K-light can only be charged with the solar panel (there is no wall plug in) and it appears to be white light only, though this could be corrected by covering the lenses with some opaque colored tape available at most automotive parts stores.

Check out the K-light here.

What would Patton do?

Submitted by Tim Brown

There are also a couple of "what if" add on programs available - one of which titled " Doomsday" , which is basically an extension of the scenerio out to '63 and examines nuclear conflict. Germany nukes NY, that sort of thing. The other program is a alternate reality type scenerio in which for instance the US Civil War ended with both sides in a stalemate and WWII breaks out. Both are great additions and add playability.

ED -- The add-ons are HoI2: Doomsday (pictured above) and HoI2: Doomsday-Armageddon.  As Tim says, HoI2:DD picks up where HoI2 leaves of, including an expanded tech tree as well as improvements to game play and system mechanics.  Both have the same low system requirements as the original HoI2.

Check out HoI2: Doomsday and Doomsday-Armageddon here.

King of the World

Submitted by Eric Daniel

You know you’ve got some down time in your combat tour when you start thinking about computer games, but as luck and fortune would have it I did and so I did.  One of the games I wiled away my down time with was a game put out by Paradox Interactive called Hearts of Iron 2.

HoI2 is a grand strategy game set in the Second World War (specifically, the timeline runs from January 1st, 1936 through December 30th, 1947.)  In HoI2 you are the leader of one of the 175 or so nations or political factions (as is the case with China.)  Truly, if you want to declare yourself the Maximum Presidente for Life of Cuba and try your hand at becoming the world’s first nuclear super power, go for it.  In a very broad sense the goal of the game (other than not getting your country occupied by another sovereign nation) is to be on the winning team. The game recognizes three political entities; the Allies, the Axis, and the Communists, though they could just as easily be called factions A, B, and C.  The “victor” is that faction which has the most victory points at the end of the game (or when you literally take over the world, which ever comes first.)  You are not required to be a member of any one of these factions, however, and indeed you can go it alone just to see if you can survive (my personal favorite was playing Finland and trying to keep back the Red Horde.)

In HoI2, as the Head of State you manage everything; the production of military assets, the development of your country’s industrial and transportation infrastructure, as well as the development of new technologies and the commencement of international trade so that you can get the things you need to feed your military-industrial machine.  Moreover, you are responsible for the political climate of your country (different government styles have different effects on your nation’s productivity) as well as deciding what “entangling” alliances you will enter into and what priorities you will set to your industry (in HoI2 you only have a fixed number of resources to devote to a myriad of tasks so concentrating your energy in one area will force you to make sacrifices in others.)

To say that the relationships between production and research, trade and industry, building and maintaining a fighting force are complex and interwoven is a bit of an understatement; the decisions you make in 1936 can make or break you come 1945.  You can build a big infantry based army early in the game, but understand that your legions will be rendered obsolete by more technologically advanced forces later on and while it is possible to upgrade your units this not only requires time (which means they need to be out of combat) and resources, which takes away from building new formations, and all of this is a moot point if you’re an island nation like England or Japan (or Australia or Madagascar for that matter) and you haven’t got a Navy.

In addition to being the HoS, you are also the CiC and there’s a lot of fighting in this game.  Ground troops are represented as divisions with attached brigades, while aircraft are represented as squadrons and ships, with the exception of submarines and destroyers, which are represented as flotillas, are depicted as individual vessels.  The quality and effectiveness of your military id dependent upon their level of technology, both in terms of hardware, as well as fighting style and doctrine.  Moreover, leaders play a significant role in combat, a good leader can make or break a fighting force, as can thrusting an in experienced leader in “over his head” (leaders can influence a number of units based upon their rank.  Stacking a leader with more units than he can manage not only has a severe negative effect on the units over the limit, it also impacts the units he can lead.)  Finally, HoI2 takes into account such things as terrain, time of day, supply availability, as well as local weather.

In any event, what really sold me on the game was not it’s accuracy, though it is quite accurate, or it’s playability, it’s an immensely enjoyable game, but rather the really low computer requirements it has.  This game is no Halo 3, but then it doesn’t have a fraction of the CPU and graphics card requirements either, which means you can play it on anything.  I’d seen quite a few folk drop thousands of dollars into top end gaming laptops in Iraq only to watch them get eaten alive by dust and sandstorms.  HoI2, on the other hand, ran just fine on the POS laptop I brought with me which I ended up recycling at the end of my deployment rather than bother to clean it up.  Simply put, it will run on any machine over there.

System requirements

• Windows 98SE / 2000 / XP
• Pentium III 800 MHz 128 Mb RAM
• 600 MB Free Hard Drive Space
• 4 MB Video Card DirectX Compatible
• DirectX compatible Sound Card
• DirectX 9.0 or higher

Check out Hearts of Iron here

Cold Steel Kobun

Submitted by MC Lordsson

I have used many different types, but found my favorite to be a Cold Steel Kobun. I would also like to recommend an M8. KBAR makes good knives as well which are combat tested better than any other manufacturer.

The Kobun by Cold Steel really fits most of my needs for a Combat/Utility knife. There is really only one thing wrong with it and that's the finish which is a bright, polished steel finish. As with any combat knife though, I would powder coat it after sharpening and before taking it with me anywhere. This tends to eliminate any rust, contamination, scratching, etc., and also takes care of any light reflection. Otherwise, this is a very light, very easy to handle blade with excellent killing properties.  It has held up to some serious abuse through the years and I have yet to replace it.

Many call me a minimalist when it comes to knives because I prefer knife with no features other than a good blade and a great grip. I also prefer a Tanto. This may not be your type of knife, but for the work I've done, and continue to do, there has yet to be a good replacement.

Check out the Kobun here