A Leg to Stand On

Submitted by Eric Daniel

I’m currently using a Nikon Spotter XL II spotting scope for OP work.  The Nikon is a 16-48x60mm scope.  Overall, I like the scope.  It’s bright, easy to use, and I like the fact that it’s got a pull out sun/dust shield, which is a life saver when out in the rain.  Since this is the first spotting scope I’ve ever had, though, I really can’t compare it to anything else, but so far, the only real complaint I have about it is it’s black (I’ve got an e-mail out to Nikon about painting it brown – at the time I got it, getting it in a different color was not an option, though I currently pack a “square” of desert colored cammo net to conceal it) and at 48x mag you basically have to wear the scope in order to see out of it (that and it is very susceptible to vibration.)

The one thing I really find difficult to use, though, especially in a tactical situation, is the tripod that goes with the scope.  Don’t get me wrong, the tripod, for most, civilian, purposes, works just fine, but I find that, one, the tripod doesn’t get low enough to allow me to lie on the ground without having to prop myself up at an uncomfortable angle, and two, the elevation lock handle, the rod that sticks out of the base of the tripod, interferes with actually getting a good, steady, sight picture out of the scope at max magnification (basically, the rod pokes you in the cheek when you try and look through the scope.)

So now I’m on the hunt for a better tactical use tripod.  One of the tripods I liked was the Ray-Vin Tactical Tripod (its military model is the M-2004.)  The Ray-Vin is all aluminum, and I like the simplicity of its center pole design which allows good access to the scope.

Vortex also makes a suitable tripod, their Vortex Summit Shooting Stand tripod.  Significantly cheaper than the Ray-Vin, the Vortex also is a bit more limited in its height adjustment.

Leupold also makes a nice looking compact tripod.  I like the fact that in addition to having a center pole extension, the legs also extend, giving it a wide height range.  Something else I also noticed with the Leupold set up was the fact that they offer a binocular adaptor, which, unfortunately, does not work with military M22 binoculars, as well as a digital camera adaptor which again, unfortunately, only works with their spotting scope.  That these devices exist, however, gives me hope that I can find similar devices to work with my Nikon scope (which will save me a lot of time and effort in drawing up sketch cards.)

Does anyone have any experience with tactical spotting scope tripods or can you make other reccomendations?

But This One is Mine

Submitted by Eric Daniel

Well, I officially now own a piece of history, having recently taken possession of a surplus Springfield Armory M1 Garand through the CMP program.  Delivered “as is” with one (empty) clip and an owner’s manual (which actually makes for rather entertaining reading), opening that cardboard box was like discovering some ancient treasure.

My first impression was, “Wow, this thing’s heavy” but the reality is, at 9.5 pounds, the Garand is only a little heavier than my current issue M4 with all the “crap” attached, like the light, the PEQ-2, and the Eotech sight (though admittedly, all that stuff does give me a number of capabilities that I don’t have with the M1.)  The other thing that impressed me was the actual wood of the stock.  I’m used to weapons made of metal and plastic and cleaned in solvent tanks, not ones made with wood worn smooth by years of use.

While I have disassembled, cleaned and lubricated my rifle, CMP recommends that the rifle be inspected by a gunsmith before firing, so I haven’t fired it yet. I did get some .30-06 dummy rounds, though, to practice not only loading loose rounds into the clip, it is an art, but also practice loading and clearing the rifle (no “M1 thumb” for me, thank you very much.)

Something else I discovered after purchasing the rifle is that as far as the gas operated Garand is concerned, not all ammunition is created equal.  Apparently, many modern .30-06 cartridges develop too high a chamber pressure, which can damage the operating rod.  One solution to this dilemma is to purchase surplus M2 ball ammunition, which is as old as the rifle itself, not always available, and may not be deliverable to where you live.  Another option is to use modern ammunition specifically built for the M1.  To this end, I’ve found only two brands, so far, that will work – Federal’s American Eagle M1 Garand ammunition, and Hornady’s M1 Garand Match (Remington has a 150 gr. .30-06 cartridge in their UMC line, but according to them it is not M1 safe.)

Now, call me a neophyte when it comes to owning firearms (which, of course, I am) but I was absolutely shocked to discover how expensive ammunition was (at $20 for a box of 20, and even the surplus ammo was around $1 a bullet.) While in the great scheme of things, this isn’t that expensive for ammunition of this size (7mm Remington Magnum, for example, will run you $55/box), I’m used to going to the ammo point and drawing cases of ammunition at a time – this is the first time I’ll actually have to pay for the stuff.  Moreover, it has been an absolute nightmare finding a local distributor for this stuff that actually has it in stock (yes, I can hear you all now saying, “Welcome to my world.”)  Lastly, a third option, and clearly the one I think I’m going to have to adopt if I’m ever going to shoot this thing recreationally, is to learn to reload my own.  Of course, my knowledge of purchasing ammunition is encyclopedic compared to actually making it, so this reloading thing is going to be an adventure in itself.

Wiggy's Sleeping Bags

Submitted by Eric Daniel

You gotta love the internet.  I can buy guns on-line but I can’t buy a zipper.  I decided to try a full-up system test of my issue MSS sleeping bag and I have come to the conclusion there’s just no way in hell I’m going to fit in the black bag and the gortex bivy.  To say that I wear the bag is an understatement; I am truly mummified in the bag.  Not only does the bag bind significantly at the shoulders (I can’t zip the bag up from the inside - I need to either get someone to zip it up from the outside, or I need to expose an arm and do it myself, and just leave the exposed arm hanging) but it only comes up to about my collarbone.  The only way I could get all the way into the bag was to hop around like a hopping caterpillar until I could get the “hood” portion of the bag over my head, and then lay down.  All in all, just way too much work, and most assuredly something I don’t look forward to doing in the rain.

So, I’m looking on-line for a replacement sleeping bag zipper for my old M1949 mountain bag (the zipper blew out.)  Unfortunately, these seem to be rather rare things.  Moreover, all the local surplus stores seem to have gone out of business, so even finding an old sleeping bag to cannibalize for a replacement zipper has become an issue.

The end result of all of this is that I’m now looking for a mil-spec sleeping bag that I can use in the field to take the place of the waif sized MSS (or at least until I can get my old M1949 back on line.)  Granted, there are any number of civilian bags out there that would fill the role admirably, were it not for the fact that they were of an exotic color and expensive as hell.  Moreover, I like the idea of a modular system, that I can layer for additional insulation in cold, aka Yakima-like, weather.

One of the sleeping bag systems that caught my eye was the Wiggy’s line.  They offer a stand alone “military style” bag with a break away centerline zipper (the zipper runs town the middle of the bag, rather than on the left or right hand seam) that is large enough for you to get in with your clothes on, and easy to get out of in a hurry.  In addition, they’ve got a nested bag system that you can tailor to your temperature requirements.  This system consists of a standard overbag (rated to +35F, the military bag is rated to +25F) and a number of optional insert bags.  The inserts range in ratings from +20F to -40F and when used in conjunction with the overbag, provide an additional 40 degrees of insulation.

Has anyone had any experience with the Wiggy’s bags?

Check out the Wiggy’s sleeping bag line here

QuikClot Combat Gauze

Submitted by Eric Daniel

I just saw that the Army named this product one of the “Top Ten Greatest Inventions of 2008.”Now, I know that there were a number of these rapid clotting products fielded, but I thought most, if not all, of them were recalled because they were a bit exothermic in their operation, or that they caused blood clots to form internally.  Apparently, though, this one is still out there.

Well my question to you all is, have any of you seen this or used it?  As a Guardsman in a non-enhanced readiness unit, I’ll see these things right about the time the regular army transitions to robot warriors, but I’m curious if any of you active duty types have encountered either this (which appears to be a kaolin impregnated gauze bandage) or the other product offered, QuikClot, which appears to be a powder (like the sulfa powder of old) that you apply directly to the wound.

In the blurb I read, the combat gauze is described as being inexpensive and easy to use (civilian prices for this range from $30- $50 so clearly the Army has a somewhat corporate concept of what constitutes “inexpensive”) and I was just curious if anyone had ever actually used it (the SF folks we worked with had something similar I believe, though I don’t think it was QC) and whether it was worth trying to trick my supply SGT into getting some.

In an interesting aside, it seems there’s some discrepancy as to who invented this stuff.  According to the Army, it was invented by  the U.S. Army Institute of Surgical Research, while Z-Medica Corporation insists it invented it.  I wonder if these are two different products with the same name or if they’re debating about what the definition of “invented” is.

Check out QuikClot Combat Gauze here.

Petzl Tactikka XP Adept

Submitted by Leo

I think that for military use the Petzl Tactikka XP Adapt is more useful because you have 4 color-filters/diffusers of witch you can always carry two, one in the light and one in a special holder on the elastic band.  In addition, you can also click it to your molle vest or helmet.  Last but not least you have a boost button to give you instant maximum lighting ideal for looking at something far away.

ED - Leo, I’d considered the Tactikka XP (REI didn’t have the XP Adapt) before selecting the Plus.  While the XP and the Adapt do have some nifty features, I thought both were more light than I was looking for.

For me, what I wanted was some thing small, light, durable, and capable of both red light and white light.  While the XP has a spotlight capability as well as a “maximum output” mode, I’ve already got the spotlight function covered with the GI-issue Surefire Millennium flashlight mounted on my M4.  Moreover, while the 4 color capability of the XP and Adept are nice, but nine times out of ten all I ever use is red light, and if I need to use a different color for something, then I’ll brake out a box of chemlights (not to mention that, while you can change colors on the XP light, there’s no place to store the additional filters, other than in your pocket or someplace similar, which for me, is just more parts to lose in the dark.)

Bottom line, I can’t fault the XP Adept, it is a good light, and like I said, I did consider it, but at the time it was more money than I wanted to spend on more light that I didn’t need.

Check out the Petzl Tactikka XP Adept here.

Lights Out

Submitted by Eric Daniel

Well, I have finally joined the 21st century when it comes to flashlights. Gone are all my bent neck D-cell dinosaur GI issue flashlights, AA-minimag lights, and my 4 cell “gold miner” style USFS headlamp. I have replaced all these lights with a single Petzl Tactikka Plus LED headlamp.

There are a number of things I really like about the T-P; it’s an LED light, so it doesn’t weigh a lot and the lights last forever, as do the batteries (the T-P has 4 LED lights with a battery life (3 x AAA batteries) which will provide power for between 100-150 hours of use, depending on power settings.) Furthermore, light comes with an integrated red/white light filter (in this case the filter is a hinged cover on the front of the light) which enables you to flip it between red and white light on the fly (there is no lens cap to unscrew like there was with the old bent neck flashlights or the minimags, though in the case of the T-P you are limited to just red or white light.) In addition, while the Tactikka-Plus does come with an additional LED light for greater illumination (the T-P has 4 LED lights as opposed to the 3 in the regular Tactikka) what I really liked about the T-P over the regular one was the fact that the mode button (which you use to cycle through the three power settings and the flash mode) is a push button on the top of the light, rather than a sliding switch. This allows for easier one handed operation, and makes it easier to change power settings (you don’t have to fight the slide to find the power setting you want, you just push the button on top.)

As with most headlamps today, the Petzl Tactikka Plus is water resistant, and comes with a black elastic headband (actually, I prefer wearing the light around my neck, rather than on my helmet or PC since I’m less likely to lose it if I’m going through brush. Besides, if I’m moving tactically, I’ll be using NODs most of the time, so the light will just be needed for a quick bit of light.)

One thing to bear in mind with this light, however. Petzl specifically recommends against using lithium based batteries in the headlamp, as the increased power output from the batteries may burn out the LED lights.

Check out the Petzl Tactikka-Plus here.

Carmex, The Stick that Clicks

 

Submitted by Eric Daniel

While out on AT recently I made an interesting discovery.  Carmex brand lip balm.  Ok, granted, it wasn’t an honest to God real discovery - I’ve known about Carmex lip balm for ages (I have a bazillion of those jars all over the place) and I know that Carmex comes in squeeze tubes now, as well as the traditional stick.  But for years, while in the field, I’ve almost exclusively relied on either ChapStick brand lip balm, or the GI issue stuff the medics hand out when we go to the field. 

Now, the one issue I’ve always had with my ChapStick is that it always seems to unscrew in my pocket.  As you may or may not know, the lip balm is in a tube with a little wheel crank at the bottom of the tube.  You turn the wheel, which drives a threaded rod in the center of the tube, which pushes the lip balm up out of the tube, so you can use it.  Well, rolling around in my pocket always seems to crank that wheel in the proper direction to push the stick out (I wonder if the fellers in Australia have this problem), which means that I have to crank it back in every time I want to use it.  This isn’t a deal breaker or a therapy requiring issue, it’s just annoying to have to “reset” your ChapStick every time you want to use it.

Well, apparently, the folk over at Carmex must have been having the same problem I was, since on their tubed lip balm, the wheel at the bottom of the tube has a friction lock on it.  This lock (and I’ve no clue how it operates, except to say that you can hear it “click” as you crank the wheel) provides sufficient friction on that central rod that it won’t accidentally advance the stick in your pocket, which, all things considered, I thought was a good bit of attention to detail.

Now, if only I could police up all those little jars and get them converted to sticks.

Check out Carmex products here.

ARC Firefly2 Emergency Strobe Light

 

Submitted by Patrick

PLEASE: If you are in the military, let go of the SDU-5/E and get a Firefly Two (NSN 6230-01-448-8340 w/pouch; 6230-01-411-8535 w/o). Keeping the SDU-5/E going is creating a problem in acquiring the replacement BA-5374/U battery, which has no other use. The cost to DoD for acquiring this specialty battery is very high and will continue to rise.

ED – Patrick.  I agree, finding replacement batteries for the SDU-5/E is getting harder and more expensive, for both civilian and military alike.  If you’re going to continue using the 5/E my recommendation is you go to an outfit like PRC68 and get an adapter cap which will allow you to run the strobe with a pair of CR123 batteries.

Baring that, you ought to upgrade to a strobe that runs off of AAs or CR123, of which there are many on the market.  The ARC Firefly2 (I think I found the proper civilian reference) you suggest is a white light only strobe.  While this makes it a fine piece of kit for civilian search and rescue operations, it lacks a IR filter for use in tactical situations (which is why I’m a big fan of the ARC MS-2000(M).)  Do the Gov. issue ones you mention come with an IR filter?

Check out the ARC Firefly2 here.

Arc'Teryx Tango Pack

 

Submitted by Canis

The Arc’Teryx Tango looks a little like the Marine ILBE, but without the side pouches (great for canteens or a SMAW/LAW rocket.) Or for that matter the E-tool pouch on the front, that the civilian model doesn't have either. I put a link to the civy version on here.

ED – Canis, the Arc’Teryx Tango looks like a full up rucksack (The photo is a stand alone shot, rather than one of a Joe wearing it) which might make it even larger than the CHIEF, especially once you factor in the attachable assault pack.

Any idea on the volume of this ruck?  I know it’s based on the ILBE, which the Marines say can carry 120 pounds, and is configured for the internal transport of 60 and 81mm mortar rounds, but there’s no mention of it’s interior volume.

Finally, have you used the Marine ILBE?  How does it stack up against the large ALICE ruck?

Check out the Arc'Teryx Tango here.

Platypus Hydration Bladders

Submitted by Everett Mobley

Camelbak packs are high quality, but I hate their hydration bladder. It collapses flat and is difficult to clean and dry.

The Platypus bladders expand like an envelope, and they can be free-standing. They are easy to fill and to drain and dry. They have screw-on caps for use as water-bottles if you're not using the sipper tube.

ED -- Everett, which Platypus system do you use?  In looking over the selection, it seems that the best bladder to use would be the Big Zip SL, with its slid lock closure system located at the top of the bladder, which makes for easy filling.  The other bladder system, the Hoser, has a screw cap, and while the loop at the top makes a convenient hanging point for the bag, the small cap opening would appear to be a drawback (most modern Camelbak bladders have a large diameter opening which allows for you to add ice or what ever easily.)  Also, at 2L. (70 Oz.) the Big Zip is still 1L. shy of the biggest Camelbak bladders.

Check out the Platypus Line of Hydration Bladders here.