Cold Steel Kobun

Submitted by MC Lordsson

I have used many different types, but found my favorite to be a Cold Steel Kobun. I would also like to recommend an M8. KBAR makes good knives as well which are combat tested better than any other manufacturer.

The Kobun by Cold Steel really fits most of my needs for a Combat/Utility knife. There is really only one thing wrong with it and that's the finish which is a bright, polished steel finish. As with any combat knife though, I would powder coat it after sharpening and before taking it with me anywhere. This tends to eliminate any rust, contamination, scratching, etc., and also takes care of any light reflection. Otherwise, this is a very light, very easy to handle blade with excellent killing properties.  It has held up to some serious abuse through the years and I have yet to replace it.

Many call me a minimalist when it comes to knives because I prefer knife with no features other than a good blade and a great grip. I also prefer a Tanto. This may not be your type of knife, but for the work I've done, and continue to do, there has yet to be a good replacement.

Check out the Kobun here

DMT Diafold tactical sharpener

Submitted by Matt

Another product I constantly use for keepin knives sharp is the Diafold by DMT. It is a diamond impregnated steel mesh mounted to a plastic plate. It has handles that fold around it like a butterfly knife. Comes in multiple grits. Weights about 1.5 oz. Very handy and effective, lasts a very long time. I've always used mine dry, and get around 10 years of use out of them. They are handy enough to carry in a pocket or tuck into a tool pouch etc. I use the blue, medium grit for sharpening everything.

ED -- Matt, funny you should bring up DMT.  My first sharpener was a 6" DMT bench whetstone (blue, med. grit.)  Unfortunately as soon as my mother found out about it she decided it was just the thing for her kitchen knives so I always ended having to wait in line behind her.

In addition to the standard rectangular stone, DMT offers Diafolds for serrated blades, fishooks, pruners and shears, and chainsaw chain as well as double sided stones (combination grits.)

Check out the Diafold sharpener here.

Goncz Hi Tech Tactical Lights

Submitted by Oz

There is another American-made flashlight that rivals Surefire (I own one of each), both from Goncz Hi-Tech.

The Goncz is smaller and lighter in weight, but has very similar output characteristics, is made of similar aircraft-alloy aluminum, has a similar array of accessories, and generally stacks up pretty well. It is also a lot cheaper...

ED -- Oz, In looking over the Goncz website, I assume you're refering to either the "M" series tactical lights, or the E-1 lithium LED light, as the remainder of their line is rather large (10+ inches.)  All of these lights use either 6v or 9v lithium batteries, and burn times range from 20 to 120 depending on model and output setting.

Check out the Goncz lights here

Sharpest Tool in the Box

Submitted by Eric Daniel

All this talk of knives got me to thinking.  “Sure, all knives come plenty sharp from the factory, but what do you do when they get dull?”

Just like small arms, I freely admit I am not a knife person.  I use them, and when they get dull I flail about and sharpen them to the best of my ability.  Hell, I’ve more experience sharpening hand tools with a Nicholson mill bastard file than I do sharpening knives. 

Prior to my last deployment I made the decision to remedy this defect.  I had purchased a sharpening kit for my brother a number of years ago for his kitchen knives (he BBQs a lot and likes having sharp cutlery for carving.)  He was pleased with the kit I’d gotten him so I figured if it were good enough for him, it’d be good enough for me.

What I’d gotten was the Spyderco Sharpmaker (model 204.)  The kit comes with two pair of stones; two medium grit stones for initial sharpening, and two fine grit stones for finishing up.  By varying the angle you set the stones into the sharpener base you can quite literally sharpen anything from darts and fish hooks to pocketknives and pruning shears.  The kit itself comes with a comprehensive guide to sharpening, describing which stones to use and what angle to set them, based on the type of instrument being sharpened and what kind of edge you want on it.  In addition, the stones themselves are meant to be used dry, which is great for field applications, as there’s no need to pack special oil or other fluids just for use with the stones.  Finally, in addition to the fine and medium grit stones included with the kit, a diamond coated “stone” (made of steel actually) and an ultra fine grit stone are also available for the Sharpmaker, in the event you need to either do some heavy duty or very fine grinding.

Get the Sharpmaker here

Gerber Yari II Knife

Submitted by Eric Daniel

For the longest time I’ve been wanting to try out a “tanto” style knife but I never got around to it.  Given the chisel-like point, I figured that they would be good for prying as well as brute force penetrating things like sheet metal, wood and masonry.  The Cold Steel entry rekindled that interest, but I didn’t want a knife that big; I already had a big tool, what I was looking for was something small, yet strong, that I could use for probing and digging.

Providence smiled on me in the form of the Gerber Yari II.  The Yari II, with a blade length of 4.25”, is small enough to get into confined spaces easily, yet has enough mass behind it that it “punches” well.  Made from CPM S30V stainless steel, the Yari II is tough as hell.  I’m not a metallurgist but the literature on S30V says it’s tougher, more corrosion resistant, and more wear resistant than either 440C or 154HC steel, yet easier to work with than S60V/S90V steel; in practical terms I have experienced no issue whatsoever with using the knife in both freshwater and saltwater environments (the knife performed well hacking up salmon heads for crab pots on a concrete bench) and cleaned up nicely, with no hint of corrosion.  To test the point and flexibility of the knife I used it to extract nails from a section of my back yard fence (it’d been blown down in a storm and I was wanting to carve up the planks for use as kindling.)  The knife held up well under the process with no obvious chipping or cracking of the edge, and the point was more than equal to the task of prying out the nails (yes yes a hammer would have been a more appropriate tool, but I was experimenting.)

In addition to being impressed with the quality of the knife’s construction, I was also quite impressed with the quality and construction of the sheath as well as the "attachment” options that come with the knife.  In addition to the now standard MOLLE attachment straps, the sheath also comes with a belt loop, as well as a screw-in clip for attaching the knife to a molded plastic drop leg pistol holster such as the Safariland Model 6004.  While the knife is held securely in the sheath by a pair of “grippers” molded into the sheath (which is how I currently have it configured) an optional thumb release strap is included with the knife for additional retention piece of mind.

All in all, the only real complaints I have about the knife are the tang and the grip, and those certainly weren't dealbreakers.  The grip, constructed of machined aluminum, is grooved for increased grip in most conditions, and I found that it was easy to hold onto wet or dry, with gloves on or off, and being metal it is non-porous and so won’t absorb any contaminants, but it does get slick when greasy (remember the fish heads??)  While I don’t anticipate getting attacked by a prime rib in my foreseeable military future, the metal grip was at a decided disadvantage when oily (in this situation the knife seemed to grip best while wearing gloves and the ridges molded into the exposed dorsal and ventral surfaces of the tang were a big help in gripping the knife.)  On the issue of the tang, I only wish it had been squared off rather than pointed.  While the pointed tang allows for a lanyard, a squared off tang would have improved (in my opinion) the knife’s utility as a bashing instrument (the tang hole could have just as easily been drilled through the metal grip a bit further forward.

Get the Yari II here.

Fenix P3D Q5 Tactical Light

Submitted by Ben

Fenix makes some real quality lights, that are about as good on batteries as I have seen, and cost quite a bit less than SureFires.  I just picked up a P3D Q5 from one of their distributors for about 85 dollars. The P3D Q5 has variable output modes to help save on battery life when you don't need a lot of light to a maximum output of 215 lumens. 

Only downside for my use is that the push button is recesseded into the tailcap so you can use it as a lamp on a tabletop with the diffuser adapter... which means it isn't perfect if you are using it as an off-hand light for shooting... but as an all around light I would have to say it is a steal at the price for its performance.

Get a P3D Q5 Here

Seam-Grip for your Gloves

Submitted by Ripsaw

A small tube of McNett's SeamGrip can extend the life of your gloves a lot.

ED -- Cool.  A couple of questions though.  Do you reccomend applying this directly to all the seams of the gloves as a preventative maintenance measure, or just when the seams start to blow out?  Also, do you apply it to the seam inside the glove, where the material is sewn, or on the exposed, outside seam?  How flexiable is this stuff?  Does it work well in cold weather?  How often do you need to reapply it?  Finally, how flammable is it?  Will it affect the fire resistance of the nomex fabric?

Anyone else ever use this?

Get some McNett's Seam Grip here.

Cold Steel Recon Tanto

Submitted by Steelcobra

Personally, my Cold Steel Recon Tanto served me very well while I was out at Robin Sage as a G. It's a solid knife I used to hammer, cut, pry, break things, and occasionally throw at trees, and it held up beautifully. The edge is nearly impossible to chip, and the protective coating held up to all kinds of abuse. The simple Kraton checked grip ensues confidence that it won't be dropped.

Finally, the stock molded Kydex sheath is tough, and the friction grips let you carry it around camp unstrapped without fear of it falling out.

While Cold Steel's site says $115, I got mine at the Clothing Sales shop for $50.

Check out the Cold Steel Recon Tanto here

Nite Ize MagLite upgrades

Submitted by Alan

Nite Ize (niteize.com) makes at least one push-button tailcap for AA Maglites, along with 1-watt LED upgrades.

REI carries a combo of the "IQ switch" and LED (item 760026) for $20:

They also have a simple switch and LED combo (item 737322) for $9 and the plain IQ switch for $8 (item 743038).

Note that the IQ switch might not be suitable for military use; it includes a low-power blinking LED in the replacement tailcap. I didn't see a non-illuminated alternative on their website.

ED -- Alan, Thanks for the info.  Items # 737322 and 743038 from the REI catalog appear to be Nite Ize products, and given the numerous products Nite Ize offers, I'd seriously recommend skipping the middleman and going straight to them for your maglite upgrades.

Check out Nite Ize here

Batteries "R" Us

Submitted by Eric Daniel

ED – In addition to offering flashlight suggestions, a number of you also offered up suggestions where to get batteries.

Andiceman:  “If you're paying $12 per battery, or even $12 per two batteries, you are paying too much. Sure, that's what the CR123A cells go for in stores where they are primarily sold for cameras and such, but you can easily find quality batteries online for less than $2 per cell. I get mine at Battery Junction.com, but there are many other reputable sources online.” 

KG2V:  “As others have said, from Surefire themselves, or Battery Station, you can get CR123A batteries for about $2 each, which actually makes the care and feeding of a G2 somewhat reasonable.”

Vorfeed:  “I can't vouch for their reliability with a Surefire-branded light, but I've got a knockoff that runs fine on the rechargeable 123As you can find on EBay. $20-$40 gets you 4 batteries and a charger. Alternately, you can get slightly higher-class (but probably otherwise identical) rechargeable at places like Green Batteries. Like that site says, "Not recommended by Surefire, can sometimes burn out bulbs, etc"... but to my mind, a new bulb is pretty cheap compared to $150 for the Surefire rechargeable lights. For what it's worth, that site's author says that the rechargeable batteries work fine with his G2.”

Surefire ( $21/12 batteries.)

Battery Junction ($1-$4 per battery.)

Green Batteries ($10.95 EA for rechargeable Li-Ion 123A batteries.)

pentagon L2 LED Light

Submitted by BWJones

I've been very happy with the Pentagon LED lights. While they run on 123A batteries, they seem to last forever and the output is exceptional. They are ruggedly built, will not roll around on flat or curved objects and are reasonably priced.

ED -- This was in response to my quest for a better flashlight.  There were a number of helpful suggestions offered up which are all deserving of their own entries so I'll be breaking them out and putting them up shortly.

Check out the Pentagon L2 here

When Batteries were Cheap and Candles Expensive

Submitted by Eric Daniel

I need a new light.  The one I am using currently, the Surefire G2 Nitrolon is brilliant, literally, but its insatiable battery habit has become an albatross around my neck.  I’ve even gone so far as to name my light “Audrey” after the man-eating plant from Little Shop of Horrors because every time I turn around that light is saying “feed me!!”

Don’t get me wrong, I love that light.  I love the high output, the on-off push button on the back, as well as the durable design, it’s the $12 batteries it eats on a regular basis that are killing me.  While this wasn’t a deal breaker in Iraq, where we has access to cases of lithium 123A batteries, back in the states, in a National Guard unit with not a lot of surplus cash lying about, those batteries are hard to come by.

I have used AA maglights in the past, and I like them as well, but the rapid on/off ability of the G2 makes it the preferred light in my opinion.

One option I’ve considered is going to an LED version of the same light.  While I sacrifice some total lumen output, I will get longer battery life (and it’s not like I’m trying to light up the entire city of Cleveland, just the 10-15 feet in front of me.)  I’ve also considered going to a rechargeable battery version, with a spare battery so I can always keep one in the light and one in the charger.  Unfortunately, those rechargeable units are expensive, and it’ll take a lot of persuading to get me to drop $150+ on a light I’ve never seen.

Anyone have any luck using different lights?

Check out the Surefire G2 here

Filson Model 63 Double Logger Jacket

Submitted by Eric Daniel

My ex-wife hated it.  My current wife hates it.  My Mother hates it.  I love it.  What I’m referring to is my Filson Model 63 double logger jacket. 

For those of you who have never experienced a Filson jacket, there really isn’t anything else out there that compares.  Filson jackets are about as old school as they come (C.C. Filson began selling their tin-cloth garments in 1897.)  Made from oil-treated cotton (referred to as tin cloth) the double logger is simply a beast when it comes to putting up with use and abuse in the field.  I purchased mine right after moving to Washington in 1995 to start working as a wildland firefighter for the USFS on the Wenatchee NF (in the above photographs the one on the left is a new model 63, while the one on the right is mine, still going strong after 10 years of field use.) 

The Model 63 was a perfect replacement for my FS issued brush jacket and served as a good substitute for my Army issued gortex jacket.  While the tin cloth is technically not waterproof, the treated cotton cloth is VERY water resistant (water doesn’t run off the cloth, it bounces) and I do not recall ever getting wet underneath.  Moreover, it is quite wind resistant, which allowed me to get by with just a nomex fireshirt underneath to keep warm on the line (yes, it does snow on the fireline.)

Refinishing the coat is accomplished by re-applying finishing wax, which you can purchase from Filson, and the few tears and holes I’ve gotten in the jacket were easily repaired by getting a replacement square of fabric from Filson and having a patch stitched in.

If only there were some way to get my wife to like it it’d be perfect….

Check out the Filson Double Logger here

How Cold Can you Go?

Submitted by SFC(ret) Paul S. Riggs

I recently purchased a "Mickey-mouse" (shorty) extreme cold weather flyers parka with a lie down fur hood.  This jacket is very lightweight, and I believe it is the warmest winter jacket I have ever bought or owned.  The other day I ordered the "longer” style.  The color is sage.  If it is anything like the shorty, I know I will be very pleased.  I would highly recommend either or both to ALL my retired Aviation Buddies.

ED -- The jacket, I believe, that you're refering to is the N2-B extreme cold weather jacket (parka) pictured above.  Rated to -40 degrees it would appear to be plenty warm for most outdoor applications.  I've never had one of these, but I have thought about picking one up from time to time.  Has anyone had any experience with this jacket, or it's longer brother, the N3-B?

According to US Wings they retail at $129 each, though I have seen them in surplus stores for much less.  I would caution you though, be careful what you purchase.  This is a very popular jacket for knock-offs.

Check out the N2-B here.

Supersize it - The Maxpedition Jumbo

Submitted by Eric Daniel

The following was taken from the comments section on the Fatboy versipack entry.  I’ve included them here to make a point.

Amtho: Anybody have a say on which is more practical, the Fatboy vs. the Jumbo?

giantskunk: I have both and find that I carry the regular versipak more often than the jumbo. The biggest advantage the jumbo has, IMHO, is the pouch to carry a Nalgene sized water bottle. There is, of course, more room in the other pouches of the Jumbo version so it is often mission dependant as which I will carry. I will say that if you fill all the pouches on the Jumbo version, you wind up with quite a bit a weight being placed on one shoulder. Also, the regular versipack is great for air travel. I put all my stuff in it for the x-ray belt and get through the metal detector faster. You can easily shove it inside a larger carry-on to show that indeed you have just one and then take it out on the airplane with all the stuff you actually need for the trip like a paperback, I-pod, headphones, tissues, passport, etc. That way, you can leave your regular carry-on with the change of clothes etc. in the overhead. I have had one for several years and taken it to several countries. A good piece of gear.

Amtho: That's the feedback I needed. Buying a Fatboy asap. Thanks.

This exchange illustrates a number of things.  First, and most importantly, the value of articulate and accurate criticism of a product, be it good bad or indifferent.  Second, personal experience is worth a thousand pictures.  In the era of on-line shopping, we often have to resort to making selections based on what we see (pictures) and what we read (product description.)  While this in and of itself is not a bad thing, it can lead us into making less than optimal choices.

For example, as illustrated above, Amtho is trying to decide which of the two packs he should consider, the Fatboy, or the Jumbo.  You can read the literature and see that the Jumbo is bigger, better, stronger, faster (and more expensive) but does he need or want all that?  How much bigger is the Jumbo?  Is it too big?  Giant’s response is spot on; the Jumbo is, indeed, all that, but as he points out, once you fill it up, you’re packing quite the tumor, and furthermore, it is less conducive to air travel than is the fatboy.  Apparently this was the information Amtho was looking for and his choice was made.

When I went shopping for an assault pack I was fortunate to be able to do it hands-on.  I folded, spindled, and mutilated every pack on the rack until I found the one I wanted.  Of those it was probably in the lower half of the size realm, but it was big enough for what I needed to do (I wanted a bag I could shoot and move with, not a dumpster with shoulder straps.)  Direct shopping allowed me to make that choice, but it was Giant’s feedback here that allowed Amtho to make his.

All this takes us back to the point of posting gear personal experiences here.  If you’re using something and you want to either tell the world it’s the next best thing since drinking beer straight from a bottle, or to avoid it as you would the plague, post it here.

Check out the Maxpedition Jumbo here.

Fatboy Versipack

Submitted by JByrd

Check this out, I have actually carried this. My boss when I first joined carried a map case and it worked good for him. Later as a scout, I found the same to be true; it IS a functional item, and there is not enough room in a truck for patrol bags anyway, we strapped ours down in the back.

I often carried a computer, every good fire direction guy should, but later mine became a PDA.

ED -- The image may not show it well, but this is an over-the shoulder bag, similar in concept to the old Army map case.

Maxpedition, the maker of the Fatboy Versipack describes it as follows...

The Maxpedition Fatboy Versipack is more than a durable, ergonomic shoulder sling pack; it is the state-of-the-art portable gear organizer that provides secured containment for and rapid accessibility of daily equipment. The versatile main compartment has a huge 156 cu. in. of space with a water-resistant storm collar that can be deployed by pulling a cord-locked drawstring. An array of integral fixed-position external pouches retains and indexes individual pieces of gear while two sets of nylon webbing anchors accommodate MAXPEDITION's modular expansion accessories such as the CP-L Radio Holster. Each Fatboy comes with a tactile non-slip shoulder pad providing great comfort during extended use.

The Versipack comes in a variety of colors (including the digital ACU pattern) and is available in a left-hand version.

Thanks to DeanS for digging up the info on this.

Get the Maxpedition Fatboy here

Trangia Mess Kits

Submitted by Waldo

For the civvies, the equivalent is the Trangia 25-1 goes everywhere I go with a backpack.

ED -- The Trangia 25-1 is an all aluminum messkit designed to meet the cooking needs of 3-4 people.  While the kit does come with a number of pots and a frypan, it does not come with "eating" trays, so you must either eat out of the pot you cook in, or bring a eating bowl with you.  To clarify, the Trangia 25-1 messkit comes with the following:

2 Saucepans (pots) 1.5 and 1.75 liters.

1 Frying pan.

1 Alcohol fueled (sterno) stove.

1 pair of pot grippers and a binding strap to secure the whole kit.

Pair of windscreens.

Trangia is a Swedish company and their line of products appears first rate.  In addition to their basic kits they offer a wide variety of accessories, ranging from winter baseplates (for cooking on snow and ice) to liquid fuel burner attachments (which allow you to adapt the alcohol burner to run off of white gas.)

Get a Trangia 25-1 here

Battlefield Fashion

Submitted by Eric Daniel

Ok ok, I know this is outside the realm of Kit-Up since this particular item is still currently under development and it will be GI issue but I couldn’t just let it pass as soon as I found out that the Army was actually investing man-hours and tax dollars on developing this piece of battlefield technology.

In the event you don’t follow cutting edge technology like I do, you probably haven’t heard about the new tactical sling bag NATIC is working on.  Seems that the old OD green canvas, um…”alternate lifestyle sachel” (to be PC about it) has finally lost its usefulness in today’s digital asymetric battlespace.

Apparently soldiers have issue with the assault bag, which is a “daypack” you stuff with goodies like more magazines, demo, food, batteries, and maybe a poncho liner and poncho for in case you have to “bug out.”  In the old days, wearing an assault pack was a no-brainer, but now that most of what we’re doing is vehicle based (get in the truck, get out of the truck, get in the truck…) using an assault pack has become a pain in the ass.  For starters, you can’t wear it in the truck, and putting it on and taking it off not only takes time (which you might not have) but it could potentially expose you to enemy fire (if you hapopen to be doing a “hot” dismount.)  One option is to just leave it in the truck, but then that kind of defeats the purpose of taking it on a patrol.  Another option is to use a different bag, one that you can stow in front of you or behind you.

This is where the old Army map bag, a.k.a. the “Foxtrot Bravo”, comes in.  The FB was a pretty versitile bag.  The size of a large telephone book, it was durable, simple, it could hold quite a bit, and with the shoulder strap, you could stow it behind you, or hip throw it to swing it around and get something out.  Unfortunately however, it would seem that the FB is no longer up to snuff and the Army has chosen to set out building a better wheel.

Mind you, I’ve no issue with improving on the qualities and functionality of the FB, but where I get confused is in the justification that the Army used to develop their own unique product (i.e. reinventing the wheel.)  Hell, to be perfectly honest, why don’t we go back to issuing the Bag, Canvas, Field, M1936 (Musette Bag), which could be worn both as an assault pack, or a shoulder bag.

It is said that “they” evaluated a number of existing commercial bags but none of them met the criteria they had established for the bag.  Who did they check out?  Coach? Versace? Gucci? Louis Vuitton?  There have got to be dozens top quality tactical gear manufacturers out there, each producing dozens of different tactical bags. From metric to left-handed, from canvas to cordura, there is a bag out there to meet your needs.

Yet the Army, apparently, couldn’t find a bag it liked, so it built its own.  The Army also goes on to identify potential uses for the bag such as storing small electronic devices and laptops (who takes a laptop to a firefight? and what were you carrying your laptop in before the Army developed this bag?) or for medics, to store there supplies in, which would be laudable, if it wasn’t for the fact that there are already a couple of million medic bags already on the market.  Truly, after reading the Army press release, it seems almost as if the Army just developed the bag and it will be up to the soldiers in the field to figure out what to do with it.

Bottom line here is, great idea, but where I’m left lost and clueless is how this new and improved Army developed bag is going to be so much better than what’s already out there.

Thoughts?

Ka-Bar, part II (D2 tool steel variant)

Submitted by Bar

You know, if you are wanting new technology and newer steels, Ka-Bar now makes the USMC combat knife with D2 tool steel as an option.  You can still get it with the stacked leather handle or a new fangled thermal plastic job, and with a partial serration if you must have that.  (I prefer the stacked leather!  The Corps is all about traditions... like winning!)

The design of the USMC Ka-Bar is a legend and there is no need to change it.  It's an all purpose general work, utility and fighting knife that can't be beat.

Just get one with the steel upgraded to the D2 and you have a winner in my book! and it sure isn't $300 either!

ED – Bar, I did some rooting around on the Ka-Bar site for the D2 variant and found this.  I assume this is what you’re referencing.

For the uninitiated (like me, who had to look this up) D2 tool steel is a high-carbon, high-chromium air-hardened tool steel often used for blanking dies. (A blanking die is a shaped metal punch that is used to cut a specific shape out of softer metal.  Think of it as a cookie cutter from hell.)  D2 tool steel has a Rockwell HRC “hardness” rating of 59-60. This steel has excellent edge holding ability but is very difficult to process.  The standard Ka-Bar is made from 1095 carbon steel, which is somewhat “softer” with an HRC “hardness” rating of 56-58.  I would imagine that the D2 version would be more corrosion resistant than the 1095 blade, more durable and hold an edge better than the standard Ka-Bar, but I don’t know how easy it would be to re-edge it if you, God forbid, gouged or chipped the edge (I use a mill bastard file on my Kukri, but then it’s made from POS leafspring steel too…)

And you’re right, it isn’t $300, but rather $144 (from the factory) which makes it about twice as expensive as the stock Ka-Bar.

Get the D2 Tool Steel Ka-Bar knife here

Äta middag ut - Dining Out in Sweden

Submitted by J.W. Will

I have seen this mess kit labeled as a Norwegian and Swedish mess kit as well.  I purchased a Swedish model, bare aluminum, but it also came with three extra items.

1 alcohol stove
1 alcohol fuel bottle
1 metal cook stand that holds the pots above the flame, acts as a stand and base for the stove and a windbreak.

All of the above except for the stand fit inside the metal cups.  Upon first getting it I put it to the test and made a batch of impromptu chili with ground beef, dried red beans and peppers, onions and chili powder and tomatoes.  I let the beans simmer and rehydrate for several hours and then added the rest and let simmer, figure about four hours of cook time all using just the items in the mess kit.

The kit is good to go; it works well on a camp stove, its alcohol stove or the kitchen stovetop.

The stand works very well to keep your cook pots either the shallow one or the deep one so you don't have any spills.

The downside, its aluminum so it turns black from the campfire and that can be a bit messy,

Overall it’s a good piece of kit, and the cook system is leaps and bounds ahead of a canteen cup and those aftermarket canteen cup cooker/stands and trioxaine.

ED -- What you are referring to actually IS the Swedish mess kit.  I too purchased one of these while looking for a replacement/upgrade to the GI issue kit, and as you say, it comes complete with a large boiling pot, lid/frying pan, as well as a combination windscreen/cook stand and a alcohol fuel burner and fuel bottle.

I had no issue at all in cooking with this stove/mess kit combo (in fact, I still use it to cook kim-chee noodles when I visit the office) and, I agree, it’s good to go as is, right out of the box.

The only reason I selected the German mess kit over this one was the fact that the German kit comes with a second, smaller bowel/container and I did not have a ready supply of alcohol fuel in the field.  Also, the shield/cook stand was an additional source of weight (though, since it is aluminum, it isn’t really all that heavy.)

All in all though, I cannot fault your preference for this piece of kit though, and I’m pleased that you have found success with it.

Get a Swedish mess kit here

Stiring the pot with the ZT0100

Submitted by akdoug

Time to stir the pot.

The K-Bar is a great knife and has served a very long and distinguished service life and is owed a great deal of respect. I have my Grand Father's USMC Ka-Bar from WWII and love it, although no longer used I take a great deal of pride in it.

Over the years technological advances have allowed for the creation of new steels that are far more superior to that of the K-Bar. If you have not seen it take a look at the new ZT 0100 made by ZT a division of Kershaw knives, designed by Ken Onion and the guys at Strider knives you just can't beat it. Far superior steels, easier to sharpen and stays sharp longer and made in the USA.

My 2 cents

Ok, hit me now :)

ED -- OK Doug, I'm going to hit you now :)  The ZT0100 is, as you say, impressive.  Yet of all it's listed qualities, the one that truly scares me is it's price tag -- $294.99.  That's a lot to drop on a tool.  With my Ka-Bar I wasn't afraid to pound with it, trench with it, or hack wire with it, but for that kind of money I might think twice about doing so.  However, inasmuch as you're a proponent of the ZT0100 how does it hold up to abuse?

Get the ZT0100 here

Nalgene "canteen" cup

Submitted by Doug

ED --  This slick little piece of kit was mentioned in the comments of the write up I did on the Nalgene bottle and I though it worthy of its own entry.  Thanks Doug!  Keep posting!

They do make a metal cup that nests with nalgene bottles. Go to Eastern Mountain Sports or REI's websites and search for "NESTER'S Space Saver Cup". I got mine for around $7. I rigged insulated carriers on my camping backpack's hip belt and it works great!

Get a Space Saver cup here

How to mix, not wear, your drink

Submitted by Eric Daniel

I saw something both sad and humorous while at my last National Guard drill; brand new soldiers trying to drink MRE beverage base powder out of a bag.  As you may or may not know, newer MREs now come with a resealable beverage pouch (I suppose in the event you want to walk around with a fluid filled Ziploc bag in your cargo pocket) for drinking the various concoctions (both hot and cold) that come with the MRE.

The reason for the bag is the Army’s going away from the canteen (replacing it with the camelback or similar hydration system) and the canteen cup (while I can get canteens from CIF, they are no longer issuing canteen cups) leaving troops with no other option than to either try and drink out of a bag-lined cardboard box (messy and embarrassing to say the least) or mix the stuff in a canteen, if they can get one.

Now, mixing stuff in your canteen has always been bad juju.  It’s dark and moist inside that canteen, and when half filled with a sugar-water slurry, it makes for a wonderful breeding ground for bacteria.  Moreover, given the design of the canteen, it’s very difficult to clean, and once contaminated, it’s really difficult to verify you’ve gotten all the crud out. 

My solution was to pick up a 1 qt. wide mouth nalgene bottle.

Fabricated from high impact polycarbonate plastic, it stands up well to its fair share of abuse.  It’s survived shipping in a duffle bag, kicking, dropping, and with a temperature range of –211 to +225 degrees F it performs well hot or cold.  Mixing drinks in this thing is a snap - add powder and water and shake.  It will even accept boiling water if you’re lacking a more suitable container for making coffee or tea in.  Moreover, if you’re using dehydrated rations, you can dump your meal in, add some water, and let it slosh around in your kit for the next couple of hours (something I did frequently while hiking.)

While the nalgene bottle does not eliminate the issue of canteen “fermentation” given that it’s made of clear plastic it’s easy to clean out and visually inspect for residue.

Get a nalgene bottle here

Bar none

Submitted by Eric Daniel

To me, knives are tools.  They are to be used and abused, to accomplish the mission or die trying.  I’ve been through several multi-tools (on average I break one a year) and pocket knives come and go (they get loaned out, lost, or break) but the one knife I have always had unwavering faith in (up until the time I had to quit using it) was the Ka-Bar USMC fighting knife.

As I mentioned in a previous post, a good utility knife is indispensable in the field.  Pocketknives like the Buck 110 are great for light work, but sometimes you need something with leverage.  Whether it was cutting open MRE cases or prying the wire off of crated ammunition, my Ka Bar took it all in stride.  In a perfect world a bayonet would have done just as well for most things, had I been able to draw one from the arms room when we went to the field, but sadly this was not the case, which made the Ka-Bar all the more valuable.  Moreover, the Ka Bar’s design alone made it superior to the bayonet.  The all-leather grip worked wonderfully wet or dry, hot or cold.  The blade was thick enough that you could pry with either the point or the flat without undue fear of it snapping, and the big steel endcap, combined with the knife’s own mass, made for a fair field expedient hammer.

It didn’t bother me in the least that I was in the Army and I was using a Marine Corps knife.  That Ka-Bar was a tool, and one I deemed best available to do the jobs I needed doing.  I reasoned that since the Marine Corps used the same rifles, ammunition, artillery and armor that the Army did, it was perfectly acceptable to use “their” knife.

Silly me.  Eventually, someone vastly more knowledgeable in trans-service etiquette than I explained to me the magnitude of the military faux pas I was committing.  No, it simply would not do to be caught out of doors with such an icon of Marine Corps tradition prominently displayed on my LBE.  As a Soldier and an NCO, I should have known better.  Need to bust open those crates of MG ammunition?  No problem – smash them on the ground or kick them, or use a stick (a good NCO always carries a good stick with them for just such a situation.)  The bottom line was that Ka-Bar was a Marine Corps “thing” and it simply had to go.  No amount of pleading, reasoning, or rationalizing could resolve the situation.  I just had to learn to do without.

Of course, ten years later I’m back to carrying a non-issue “fighting” knife, but now it’s made in Nepal, not Olean, N.Y. so I guess that makes it ok…

Get your Ka-Bar here.

Coming soon: 100-gecko-an-hour tape

Submitted by Eric Daniel

Seems folk at the University of Akron are trying to take a page out of the gecko’s wall climbing playbook (or at least its feet) by developing a form of adhesive tape that mimics the gecko’s foot.  Unlike conventional 100-mph tape, which uses a “glue like” chemical adhesive, the gecko tape derives its binding power through a self-generated electrostatic charge.  The gecko’s foot pads are covered with thousands of hairs which are, in turn, split into hundreds of smaller nano-hairs.  The “gecko tape” mimics this through the use of setae, bundles of strong and flexible carbon nanotubes, which recreate the electrostatic charge.

Currently being developed for space applications, gecko tape isn’t available to the general consumer yet, though no doubt, when it does come out, it will be just the thing for doing BDA repairs on the F-22 and F-35.

Check out gecko-tape here.

Cooking, Bessemer style

Submitted by Eric Daniel

Over the years, I’ve used a number of cooking stoves in the field, ranging from the “ancient” 1880’s design SVEA 123, to the sterno fired Swedish army mountain set, to the MSR XGK multi-fuel.  The one thing they all have in common is they run off of some form of liquid fuel.  Run out of fuel and all you’re left with is a high tech paperweight.

I have also used trioxane tabs as well, and while they’re the best thing to use for cooking in a truly tactical environment (their blue flame is not a dead giveaway) they are bulky to carry in mass and as such, you need to be very careful not to burn through them if you’re going to be in the field for any length of time.

This got me to thinking.  “Is there a stove out there (other than those that run off cartridges like the Gaz or the Jetboil) that run off of something other than liquid fuel?”

The zip stove.

This is the first camping stove I ever owned.  I picked this stove up as a card-carrying Boy Scout back in the 80’s and until I replaced it with my XGK, it was my constant outdoor companion.  The Sierra “zip” stove is basically a man-portable blast furnace that uses a forced ventilation system to burn any combustible material.  Sticks, twigs, bark, pinecones, they all go into the stove.  The complete stove weighs less than a pound and the fan/stove stand fits into the burner chamber for low volume storage.  The standard zip stove is powered by a single AA battery, which will provide power for six hours of operation (the 18,000 btu burner will boil a quart of water in under four minutes.)

Since I purchased mine, there have been a number of upgrades and modifications made to the baseline unit.  Sierra now has a number of accessories available, to include a spark arrestor, grilling box, D cell converter (35 hours of cook time off the D cell battery) and heat shield.

The zip stove is definitely not tactical.  When operational it produces a bright yellow flame, and depending on the quality of your fuel it may smoke a bit (if you’re going to use wet or damp fuel try to “pre-heat” it by piling it next to the stove once you get a good fire running.  The fuel will dry out quickly and reduce the amount of smoke created.)  Its use (in non-combat situations) may be restricted if you are in a no natural fire, or no wood gathering area, but in those situations where fuel is readily available, a pack of 8 AA batteries will last you a lot longer than a gallon of white gas, and they aren’t nearly as flammable.

Get a zip stove here

Keeping the outside out

Submitted by Eric Daniel

This may seem a little morbid, it certainly did to more than a couple of folk in my unit, but back in the early 90’s the best way we found to keep the wind and weather out and the heat in while sleeping on the tank was to get yourself a body bag. 

Officially designated a “human remains pouch, type I” the bag I used, which I “acquired” during Desert Storm, is a zippered nylon sack and, by design, is big enough to accommodate not only me, but my sleeping bag, and my sensitive items.

While the nylon fabric is not totally waterproof, it is fairly resistant, and when treated with Scotchguard (or its ozone-friendly 3M equivalent) holds up well to a pretty thorough soaking.  Moreover, it does a very good job of cutting down on any crosswind and has even proven itself capable of seeing me through near zero snowstorms while out in Yakima.  Finally, it is also pretty durable; I’m still using the same bag I picked up back in 91.

Granted, like just about everything else I use or have commented on, there are bigger and better items out there.  The Army itself has putout a gortex bivy sack to go with its new modular sleeping bag (I’m on my second M1949 mountain bag) which is definitely the cat’s meow, but at $275 retail (compared to $15 for the body bag) the Army bag is a little on the spendy side.

Buy a body bag here

TL-29 closeout

Submitted by Eric Daniel

While going over the comments many of you posted regarding the Buck 110 utility knife, I came across several references to the TL-29. The TL-29 electrician’s knife was originally an issue item manufactured by the Camillus Cutlery Company. It has two blades; one is a standard 2.5-inch cutting blade and the other is a locking combination screwdriver and scraping blade.

Unfortunately, in February of 2007 Camillus closed its doors for good. As a result, these knives are no longer being produced, no longer issued, and are rapidly becoming unavailable. If ever you wanted a replacement, now is the time to get one.

ED -- As a number of you have pointed out, the Link for this item was not working.  I thought I had resolved the issue but now it appears that the site that was carrying the TL-29, Simpson Ltd., no longer has any available.  The only other TL-29s I've found available have been on eBay.  Rather than play marco polo with temporary links, I'm going to remove the link here and search for another, long term, source for these knives.  Until then, if you were interested in getting one of these knives, I would recommend you do an individual internet search.

The fighting man's squishy bowl

Submitted by Eric Daniel

Ok, I will be the first to admit, when I checked out the Squishy Bowl (BWJones commented on it under my spork entry) my first impression was, “Oh, no way in hell.”

There is no way I am going to be caught dead in country packing this thing rolled up between my CLS bag and my claymore mine, and I sure as hell am not going to carry anything colored tomato or celery (those are foods, not colors.)

Seriously, my initial thought was, “why bother?” All the food I eat either comes in it’s own bowl (MRE pouches) or it comes from the mess hall. Even when I’m "cooking” in the field, using my handy dandy “nazi pot” I usually end up eating out of the pot rather than transferring the food.

But, on second thought, my reaction was more one of, “well, why not?” A British soldier was the one who put name to concept I’ve had for some time when he described the “racing spoon”, which was a spoon soldiers carried on them at all times. The racing spoon had to be big enough to eat lots fast, and long enough to be able to reach the bottom of the tin without shaking food out all over your face.

The squishy bowl is the racing spoon of bowls. It’s lightweight, so it won't slow you down, it’s flexible, so you can fold it up and stow it in a pocket or your “bail out” bag, and in the absence of a canteen cup, it is a relatively useful piece of camp kit.

The squishy bowl is made of 100% flexible food-grade silicone, temperature resistant to 400 degrees F (yes you outdoor survivalists can use it to sterilize water with for drinking) and can be turned inside out for “cleaning” (also known as licking.)

Just remember, when anyone asks, they only come in red, blue, gray, or green.

Get your Squishy Bowl here

Dining in Hell

Submitted by Eric Daniel

Ok, a number of you have commented on these, so I decided to give them their own entry. I am, of course, referring to the titanium spork. Once the ubiquitous lunchtime sceptre wielded by kindergartners the world over, the spork has evolved into a lightweight, neigh indestructible culinary instrument of high adventure.

Part spoon, part fork and all titanium, these sporks are lightweight (half an ounce in most cases), and, being made of titanium, hold up well under extreme conditions (chili, mac and cheese, constructing an individual fighting position, etc…) so they will provide years of service (not that I’ve ever had a stainless steel mess kit spoon fail, but you get the idea.) As an added feature, the titanium sporks are also non-ferrous, so they can be used by you EOD-types for probing minefields, or by you SEAL-types for a quick bite of surf-and-turf as you hit the beach.

The only downside to the Ti-spork is the cost. At $10-$20 a unit, they aren’t cheep (for a spoon) but if the best is what you want, this is it.

Get your Uber-spork here

I have the power

Submitted by Eric Daniel

Ok, first off, this entry makes two assumptions:  1) you have access to some form of “residential” (110v-240v range) electrical power and 2) you have equipment that runs off of standard AA-AAA batteries (to the best of my knowledge there are no commercially available rechargeable A123 (a.k.a. “Surefire”) batteries.)  That being said, for those of you in the above two categories, this might be of interest.

Now days, just about every hand held device runs of batteries.  In the “old” days, most military equipment ran off of specific, purpose built mil-spec batteries.  NVGs for example, required one type, flashlights another, and commo gear yet a third.  Now, everything pretty much runs off of stacks of AAs.

This is where a recharging system comes in handy.  With the need for all those AA batteries, supply issues can come up, especially if you are in a less than well-established area of operations (again, if you haven’t got access to power you’re out of luck, but more often than not you’ll get power before you get a brick of batteries.)

Early recharging systems were pretty straightforward; you put the batteries in and when the light turns green, they’re charged.  Unfortunately, unless you monitor the charger, this can lead to overcharging, which is bad for rechargeable batteries.  In addition, rechargeable batteries also “bleed off” (self-discharge) at a higher rate than conventional, non-rechargeable batteries, so they have a much shorter "shelf life" than conventional batteries.

Fortunately, however, newer charging systems not only charge batteries faster, but monitor total charge and once they’re full, the charger goes into a trickle charge mode, which keeps the batteries ‘topped off” indefinitely.  This feature allows you to complete a mission, put your batteries on the charger, and not have to worry about their state when you load them for your next mission.

Get chargers and batteries here

When you care enough to shoot the very best

Submitted by Eric Daniel

Again, this is a little bit outside the realm of Kit-Up, but a number of folk have referenced this in previous comments and I figured I’d throw this out not only to showcase the rifle, but also to put the spotlight on the CMP program and how you might secure a piece of history on the cheap.

The M1 Garand (United States Rifle, Caliber .30, M1) was the first semi-automatic rifle to see issued service with the US military. The rifle was gas operated, and fired the same Springfield .30-06 (7.62mm x 63mm) cartridge from an internal 8-round clip that the bolt action Springfield 1903 rifle it replaced did. Issued in 1936, the Garand was so successful in combat during the Second World War (the Garand was the only semi-automatic service rifle to see near universal service with any army during the war) that General George S. Patton declared it “the greatest implement of battle ever devised.”

Over 5.4 million Garands were produced and the rifle was not completely withdrawn from service until 1965.

This is where CMP comes in. The Civilian marksmanship Program is a program initiated by Congress in 1996 to instruct civilians in proper weapon handling, safety, and marksmanship. Through CMP qualified individuals are eligible to purchase M1 rifles and parts. Quality and availability are sporadic at times (CPM refurbishes existing surplus rifles, it does not manufacture or distribute new weapons) but the prices are unbeatable; a “Field Grade” M1 will run you $495 through CMP as opposed to over $1,000 from a commercial manufacturer.

CMP does have some eligibility requirements, however, so check out their website before you submit your order. Also, don’t hold your breath when you do submit an order. Given the nature of how CMP operates, it could take as long as 6 months to a year to get your order filled. CMP refurbished rifles as they become available, and sells the rifles after that. Since there is no dedicated production line, sales are a feast or famine kind of thing.

Order the M1 garand here

What time is it?? Are we there yet??

Submitted by Eric Daniel

The purpose of a watch is to tell time. After that, it’s all just bells and whistles. Throughout my career, I’ve had more than a few; some were big and gaudy (G-shock) some were big and spendy (Citizen Aqualand Promaster, which I still use for diving by the way) and some were cheap and unreliable (the army issue tritium faced watches.)

This is the watch I’m currently using, and really have no intention of deviating from. Technically, it’s referred to as the Timex Men's Easy Set Alarm Watch #T50832. The watch will run you about $45 and it does everything I ask it to with out a lot of fuss or manipulation.

First off, the face is analog (i.e. it has hands) and there are luminescent strips on the hands so that you can read the watch at night without having to use the back-light. If you want to back-light the watch, however, it uses Timex’s “indiglo” feature, which provides enough blue-green light for you to read the watch without lighting up your position.

The alarm is easy to set; you simply rotate the bezel till the alarm needle is set to the correct time and then pull out the alarm pin. Pull the alarm pin out to the first stop (one beep) and you’ve set the alarm for 1-hour mode (the alarm will go off when the minute hand hits the alarm needle.) Pull the pin to the second stop (two beeps) and the alarm is set for 12-hour mode (the alarm will go off when the hour hand hits the alarm needle. So that you can’t screw up the needle setting, once you pull the alarm pin out, it disengages the alarm setting gear on the bezel.

Setting the time and date on the watch is simply a matter of pulling out the time/date set screw and rotating the bezel. There is no twisting of tiny knobs or mashing of buttons, which makes it easy to change the time on the fly.

Finally, not that I’ve tested it, or ever anticipate validating it, the watch is water resistant to 50m, which is good enough for everything I’ll ever do with it.

P.S. Astute readers will notice that I’ve got the watch wrapped around one of the Silverfoot watchbands Buzzard commented on a while back. I have to agree with him, these watchbands are easy to use, reliable, and pretty much indestructible.

Buy this watch here

Stand in the place where you work

Submitted by Eric Daniel

Back in ‘04 our Scout Platoon was doing some integration training with the 11th ACR folks over at Ft. Irwin. While sitting in on a training meeting the subject came up of “degraded” land navigation. The First Sergeant was concerned that soldiers were becoming too dependent upon GPS units and that they were loosing their traditional land navigation and orienteering skills. Knowing that the Guard, non-enhanced units especially, is typically a couple of decades behind the active army when it comes to gear, the First Sergeant turned to me and asked me how we navigated out in the desert. I replied, “Just like everyone else, First Sergeant, with a star chart and a sextant,” where upon the discussion devolved into discovering just what a sextant was…

Anyway, I have always been a firm believer of carrying some form of reliable as gravity navigational equipment as a backup. For me, this means carrying a compass, and while the Army issue lensatic compass (the tritium illuminated kind) is reliable, my preferred compass is a commercial type manufactured by Silva. The Silva M15 Ranger Professional compass is simple, straight forward, and easy to operate. It has a sighting line and mirror to allow you to take accurate “cheek-hold” azimuth sightings, as well as a straightedge and ruler on one side for measuring. In addition it also has a couple of 1:25,000 and 1:50,000 scales which make it handy for plotting your location or an airstrike without having to get out your map protractor (for you artillery guys out there there is also a version with a milliradian ring.)

The big thing the M15 has going for it, however, is a permanent offset capability for magnetic declination. What this means is if you ever find yourself out in the middle of nowhere engaged in some old school dirt beetle action, you can adjust your compass (using a set screw) to compensate for the grid-magnetic declination angle, which means no more conversion calculations. With an adjusted compass, whatever azimuth you plot on your map is the one you follow using your compass.

P.S. As mentioned previously, me and favorite things don’t seem to get along. While Silva seems to take great pride in touting the capabilities of the Ranger M15 compass, they offer no suggestions on where to get one in the US (the distributor they list for the US is Brunton.) As such, I would recommend the Brunton 15TDCL as an acceptable substitute for the Silva M15.

Get the Brunton 15TDCL here

The often imitated, but never duplicated, Buck 110

Submitted by David Lockhart

This knife should be standard issue to every sailor. As it is, every sailor worth their salt has one strapped to their belt. This tool is indispensable to the job. I used it to strip paint, splice lines, clean fingernails...you name it. I kept the blade sharp enough to cut a six-inch hawser like it was butter. I still have my original knife from thirty years ago when I finished boot camp. Along with my dungarees, it was the first thing I purchased at the 32nd street exchange.

Buy the Buck 110 here

Photon microlight

Submitted by James Hollon

A must have for all deploying soldiers. I carried one on my dogtag chain throughout my OIF deployment. Always handy and available, lightweight, and the battery last for years (depending on amount of usage). I've had one in use for 3 years without replacing the battery. I recommend red light for map reading, or blue because of the short wave length of the light. No WHITE LIGHT!

ED - James, yes, these are brilliant little lights to have.  They're just the ticket for when a little bit of light is good enough (seems now a days seems everyone is packing one of those surefire portable lighthouses you could signal Venus with.)  My only word of caution though is check the water integrity.  I do not recall the brand of LED microlight I was using, but when the sucker got wet it would turn on (yes, the package said it was water resistant; I checked before I bought it.)  I eventually solved the problem by putting a little medical pill bag over the light if I knew I was going out in the wet.  Bottom line though, these are good lights to have.

Buy a microlight here

I am the Greatest

Submitted by Eric Daniel

The first multi-tool I started using was the Swiss Army Champ. It was big and it was expensive and I did not need 90% of the tools that it came standard with, but what it did have, and what made it simply indispensable for me as an M1A1 gunner was a tiny jeweler’s screwdriver.

For those of you in the armor community, you know a jeweler’s screwdriver is an absolute must for adjusting emergency mode drift (yes yes, adjusting emergency mode drift is a organizational-level maintenance function (which is why tank BII doesn’t come with a jeweler’s screwdriver) but when was the last time a mechanic actually came out to the gun line to adjust your drift??)

You could always carry one in the pen pocket of your CVC coveralls, where it would tear a hole in the sleeve, or you could put it in the TC’s oddment box under his armrest, where it was a pain in the butt to get to, or you could stick it into the foam pad on the spent brass box, where you’d bend it getting in and out of the gunner’s station.

OR…. you could go out and get a Champ and do your E-mode drift in style.

By today’s multi-tool standards the Champ, though a precision piece of equipment, is a bit spendy and not as stout, it is still indispensable for that one job, which is why I still have mine, 15 years later.

Buy a Swiss Army Champ here

Gerber Multiplier 600

Submitted by Jeff Hamilton

One of the first items I ever purchased out of pocket, I have used it every day on the job. The first was a blunt-nose, but from experience I highly recommend the needlenose. For those who need to avoid light glint, they do come in flat black. The nylon carry case will wear out pretty quickly with rough use, but is easily replaced. Gerber customer service is excellent - they lifetime guarantee their products; I broke the saw blade on my Multiplier on the job once and it was promptly and cheerfully replaced.

Buy a Gerber 600 here

Silk, it keeps the mud out

Submitted by John Fleming -

During the opening of OIF I deployed into Northern Iraq up into the mountains. Unlike the rest of Iraq this area is very cold, wet and windy in the winter/spring. While living in the wheat fields there it was a soupy combination of water, mud, and snow that continually got in our gear and our bags- due to the combat environment we slept in our gear sometimes boots on and it wreaked havoc on most folks sleeping bags- not mine- I brought a silk bag liner from REI and besides keeping my bag a lot warmer it also kept it clean from all the grit and junk that can not only make the bag uncomfortable but also reduce it's insulating properties. Every morning I would get up pull out my liner- shake it clean and then give it a light rinse- it would be dry in an hour or so- less if hung in open sunlight- so every night I had a warm clean place to sleep. Great for keeping your morale up.

Buy a silk bag liner here

Worth its weight in water

Submitted by Eric Daniel

When I signed up, military water containers came in 3 basic sizes; small (1-2 quart canteens), large (5 gallon jerry cans), and huge (36 gallon lister bags and 250 gallon water buffaloes.)  There was no in between (your only option was to carry lots of canteens.)  Prior to Desert Storm I did some looking around and came across the “old” (pre-me) Vietnam-era 5 quart water bag.  These were just what we were looking for.  They hold enough water to get you through the day, they are not bulky (they’re essentially a 5 quart bladder in a nylon carry sack, which collapses as you use the water) and they are certainly a lot more durable and practical than carrying water in the thin plastic water bottles we got in Saudi Arabia.  Even when I got off active duty and went to work for the Forest Service as a firefighter, this 5-quart bag was my preferred method for transporting water on the fireline.  I have subsequently been issued a camelbak, which I use for convenience, but I still carry a couple of these 5-quart bladders as back ups.  They are a lot cheaper than camelback bladders, and they allow me to stock up on water in the field (I can use a hand operated purifier to pump treated water into the bag and backfill the camelback, rather than use iodine pills.)

5-quart water bag

Keeping it Fresh -- Upgrades for the SDU-5/E

Submitted by Eric Daniel

Many of you have commented on the availability of upgrade and adapter parts, as well as a few in-house modifications you have done to keep your AN/SDU-5/E distress strobes working and I figured it was time to create a separate entry for that venerable, but definitely still functional, pocket strobe light.

For the uninitiated, the AN/SDU-5/E is a personal distress strobe light originally carried by aviators as a piece of their survival kit.  The strobe light was originally designed to run off of one BA-1574/U mercury battery (NSN 6230-00-067-5209.)  These batteries have been rendered obsolete and have since been replaced by a number of alternatives, including the BA-5374/U lithium manganese dioxide battery (NSN 6135-01-455-9846) as well as the Kodak 123 lithium camera battery (in the case of the 123 battery two are required, as is an adapter for the battery well.)

The SDU-5/E can also be equipped with a flash guard/Blue Filter FG1C NSN 6230-00-401-2285.  The purpose of this filter is to change the color of the strobe flash from white to blue.  The filter also channels the strobe, making the beam steer-able, rather than omni-directional.  When not in use, the blue filter can be stowed over the body of the SDU-5/E.

The second filter the SDU-5/E uses is an IR cap.  The IR cap completely covers the strobe light, rendering the pulse invisible to the naked eye.  Night vision devices, however, can readily see the pulse.  Both filters cannot be used simultaneously.  When not in use, the IR cap is stored over the SDU-5/E light.

AN/SDU-5/E Strobe light

THE tanker stove?

Submitted by Rex Manchesian

In Vietnam WE had a stove that we called "TANKER STOVE"

The stove was about the size of a pineapple and it came in a aluminum casing which also served as cooking pots.  - IT BURNED EVERYTHING  -- The fuel was contained in a container at the bottom of the stove --it had a small hand pump built in --only a few pushes on it pressurized the container and you where ready to go --it would burn for hrs on one small load of fuel -- we guarded it with our lives.  I still have one over 40 years latter.  Coleman makes a stove similar to it.

ED – Rex, I think the stove you are referring to is this one pictured here.  It’s the M1950 Squad stove.  As you describe, it comes in a two piece aluminum container which also serve as pots.  The stove will run white gas, MOGAS, and leaded and unleaded gasoline.

M1950 Squad Stove

Heat in the Field

Submitted by Jeremy Hendricks

I use this almost every time I go into the field. It is almost the exact same size as a Nalgene bottle, but it will do all kinds of things: boil water, heat soup, melt snow, whatever. It also has lots of cool attachments that allow you to use it as a skillet, etc. This kit is well worth the money.

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